First Look: San Antonio’s Luna Rosa Puerto Rican Grill living up to expectations of Rosario’s old space
Nina Rangel
Luna Rosa’s specialties include a massive Cuban sandwich, ropa vieja and crispy, twice-fried sweet plantains.
Family owned Luna Rosa Puerto Rican Grill has relocated into the distinctive Southtown space that, until recently, housed culinary powerhouse Rosario’s Mexican Cafe y Cantina. Talk about big shoes to fill.
However, a visit Wednesday to the recently opened dining spot suggests the Luna Rosa crew is up to the task. While the team is only offering a limited menu until it’s fully acclimated to the new space, everything we tried was exceptional.
Let’s jump in.
Nina Rangel
Luna Rosa’s slow-cooked ropa vieja was succulent and well-seasoned.
As entrees, we opted for the the ropa vieja — shredded beef slow-cooked in red wine, tomatoes, onion and bell pepper — and the chicken breast stuffed with sweet plantain and chorizo. Both proved succulent, tender and well-seasoned. A choice of rice and black beans or Puerto Rican rice with peas accompanied the main dishes.
Luna Rosa’s take on a Cubanito sandwich — Puerto Rican-spiced pork roast, ham and bacon along with Swiss and cheddar cheeses pressed between fresh brioche — was as filling, salty and satisfying as its description makes it out to be. The hearty sando was accompanied by either fried plantains, tostones or house fries.
The restaurant’s tapas menu was a draw before it relocated from its original digs in the Brooks development, so we sampled small plates as well. The coconut shrimp walked a delightful balance between savory and slightly sweet, while our orders of tostones and calamari got a flavorful jolt from a tangy aioli. All three fried items were done to crispy perfection.
Fans of the pre-move Rosario’s may be happy to know that the peninsula of a bar breaking up the waiting area and dining room is still a focal point. Luna Rosa’s staff now uses it to serve up not just margaritas but mojitos, Latin-made cervezas and fresh juices.
In December, owner Iris Gonzalez-Ornelas told the Current the Southtown Luna Rosa initially will focus on crowd favorites. However, the menu will expand over time to showcase a larger range of her homeland’s cuisine.
“Puerto Rican cuisine is so big, there’s so many things that I would like to have at my restaurant, but there’s only so much we can cook,” she said. “So, we’ll definitely have the nachos, because people love those, and the pork roll … and people love our drinks, so we’re also going to expand on our cocktails.”
Given Wednesday’s sampling, we’re looking forward to exploring more.
Luna Rosa, 901 S. St. Mary’s St., is open Wednesday and Thursday from 11 a.m.-8 p.m., Friday from 11 a.m.-10 p.m., Saturday from noon to 10 p.m. and Sunday from noon to 8 p.m.
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